ITALY: PIEMONTE (PIEDMONT): OSSOLA: VALLE ANZASCA: MONTE ROSA

The mountain peaks of Monte Rosa dominate Macugnaga at the end of the Anzasca valley. Like a huge cathedral of rock and ice, Monte Rosa is the only Himalayan-type face within the Alps. Rising to a height of 4,638m, there are four distinct peaks - or "le quattro sorelle" (the four sisters) - Gnifetti, Zumstein, Dufour and Nordend.

When the sky is bright and the sun shines on to the vast face, Monte Rosa lives up to its name of the Pink Mountain, providing a wonderful natural splash of colour. At these times it is truly breath-taking, even from some distance away, and we defy anyone not to want to stop the car and take a photo.

In common with many of the great mountains, Monte Rosa attracts many climbers and has, unfortunately, claimed many lives of those who have attempted to scale its various peaks.

Poignant reminders exist in the beautiful mountain chapel next to the town's century-old lime tree, which is the symbol of Macugnaga and where the towns elders and officials once met to discuss matters of importance. The chapel has an area in its place of rest outside dedicated to those who have lost their lives while persuing their dreams of climbing the great peaks.

Imagining what pushes men and women to take such risks, that overwhelming desire to succeed, and how young lives are often cut short makes it very moving and we strongly recommend a visit. Follow the path up from the cablecar station and you'll soon reach the chapel.

MACUGNAGA

Nestling at the foot of Monte Rosa is Macugnaga (pronounced MA-KOO-NIAGA), the principal tourist and ski resort of the Ossola valleys. The town offers a good number of hotels, cabin-style villas and apartments for holiday accomodation all year round. There is also a nearby, well-established camping/caravan site.

Macugnaga is an ancient town founded by the Walser, a Germanic people who in the 13th century emigrated from the Vallese area to the alpine pastures to the south of Monte Rosa. The traditions and cultural signature of the Walser is still to be found in the characteristic stone and wooden buildings, in the local dialect, and in the costumes worn during festivals. There is a museum dedicated to the Walser at Borca.

Right: we found this pleasant spot for a snack lunch on the slopes of Monte Rosa above Macugnaga.

Winter Sports

The area to the north and west of the town, around Pecetto and beyond, provides a large skiing area, with pistes suitable for beginners, as well as more challenging pistes for experienced skiers.

As a ski resort the venue is well equipped during the season, with two ski schools, hire shops and so on. There are two cross-country runs that pass between the old houses of Pecetto and Isella and into the woods, before entering a small valley called Quarazza.

There are excellent opportunities for snowboarding both on and off-piste, taking in the slopes of Monte Moro or the Belvedere area of Monte Rosa. There is also a specially reserved area on Monte Moro for free-stylers.

Other sporting activities available include horse riding, mountain biking, paragliding and snowboarding. There are also  tennis courts and a fully equipped sports centre for football. For several seasons, Italy's Seria A soccer team AC Torino chose Macugnaga as a pre-season training base camp.

Macugnaga is an all-year round resort, though to call it a 'resort' seems wrong. It does have all the trappings many would expect and need - hotels, restaurants, ski schools and several pistes for varying skill levels, shops and night life, but it retains a genuine charm and homely feel. Apart, perhaps, from some of the items in the gift shops, there is little about Macugnaga that makes you feel you've entered a world created for tourists.

They cater for tourists, sure, and do it pretty well, but essentially this is just a small Italian Alpine town providing a living for local workers and making the most of its wonderful natural surroundings.